Monday, December 10, 2012

How To Thicken Black Hair


If you're suffering with this painful problem you need to know the main causes of hair loss in black women and some solutions to re-grow and thicken your hair.

As black and African American women, we pride ourselves in the beauty and health of our hair and losing it is a crushing blow to our self-esteem.

When I was a teen I lost my edges to too tight braids so I know how traumatizing it is.

I grew my hair back completely and I've never had to deal with the embarrassment of bald patches again. You can do the same.

The first step in how to thicken black hair is to understand the root cause.



Why Did My Hair Break Off and Thin Out?

I read a study years ago that said thinning temples, edges and thin hair in general is a major problem that affects 2 out of every 3 black women at some point in their life.

If you've worn braids or weaves a lot or had your hair over processed you've probably had issues with hair loss and thinning. Our edges in particular are vulnerable because the hairs are very delicate.


Major Causes of Thinning Hair in Black and African American Women

What causes thinning hair and hair loss in black women and what are the solutions for how to thicken black hair?
Tight Braids and Weaves
The major cause of thinning temples for black women.
Medically known as traction alopecia.
Your hair has a better chance of growing back if the trauma wasn't severe or for a long period time.
Wearing braids and weaves constantly tends to cause this issue.
Solution: Catch the problem early and recovery is as simple as not wearing the tight braids or weaves until the thinning areas grow back in.



Over-processing with Chemicals

Relaxers, curly perms and all permanent hair color can weaken your hair and lead to thinning.
These chemicals break down the inner structure and change the PH of your hair strands.
One bad service can leave you with lots of damage and over-processed edges that disintegrate with the slightest touch.
Solution: Toss the chemicals! It might be hard to imagine going without a relaxer or hair color, but do it for the health of your hair. Experiment with styling that doesn't involve processing. If you give your hair a break it will bounce back over time.


Stress, Medication And Poor Nutrition
Stress and medication are major causes of hair loss.
The quality of your hair is directly connected to the quality nutrition you eat.
If you have poor nutrition thinning, dullness and hair loss aren't unusual.
Solution: Be sure to get at least 10-15 minutes of quiet time each day. Stress not only affects your hair but your overall health as well.

If you've been prescribed medication that's causing hair loss and thinning consult your doctor as soon as possible to talk about the problem and what steps you can take to reduce the side effects.

If you have a hard time eating right, think about supplementation with a Multi- vitamin formulated to support hair growth.



Over Styling

Using too much heat on a regular basis damages your hair leading to weakness and shedding.
Combing and brushing too hard and too often causes thinning of the hairline since it's the most susceptible.
Solution: Resist the temptation to over use the flat iron or brush your edges into submission when you're due for a relaxer. There more gentle and effective ways to flatten your edges.

Use a light gel and a soft bristle brush to smooth them down.
Tie your edges down with a silk or satin scarf for at least 30 minutes to encourage them to lay flat.
Stop fighting the texture of your hair as it grows out and experiment with hairstyles like braid out's and twist out's that hide the new growth.

Scalp Conditions

If your scalp is itchy, flaky and sore it could be a sign of a bacterial or fungal infection taking over.
Left untreated it can lead to serious hair loss and other issues.
Solution: If you notice dampness, bleeding, strange smells or pain please see a doctor who can examine the area, provide treatment and save your hair and scalp.


Hormonal Changes

Changes in hormone levels during pregnancy and menopause cause some women to lose hair.
Female pattern baldness is caused by low estrogen levels. It usually affects the crown of the hair and is hard to treat without medical intervention.
Solution: If pregnancy is causing your hair loss, after you give birth your hormones should balance themselves out and your hair will grow back. If it doesn't, visit your doctor and have it checked out.

If your hair loss is menopause related visit your doctor to investigate options like hormone therapy, topical products like Rogaine or referrals for African American hair transplant specialists.



Tips to Thicken Black Hair

If you're battling with hair loss or alopecia you can grow and thicken it back up if you act quickly. Here are some steps you can take to thicken black hair.
Take Hair Vitamins - Healthy bodies produce healthy hair. If you can't eat right all the time take a good hair vitamin as insurance.

Use Thickening Shampoos and Conditioners - They won't make your hair thicker permanently but can give it more volume by coating it with protein.

Get Regular Trims - If your problem is thick roots with thin ends clipping regularly will help your hair maintain the same thickness along the whole length.

Get a Blunt Cut - Always go for a blunt cut. Hair that's all one length looks thicker than layers.

Wear Curly Styles - Curls add volume and give the illusion of thickness. Braid outs, twist sets, rod sets and roller sets are all good styling options for thin hair.

Keep Your Hair Short - Lots of length makes fine thin hair look limp and holding on to damaged ends brings your hair down with 'dead' weight.



Products to Thicken Black Hair

If you want to thicken black hair naturally, there are two popular products to use; castor oil and biotin.


Jamaican Black Castor Oil For Hair Growth

Castor oil is one of the best kept secrets and home remedies to growth and thicken black hair. The first time I heard about it was through one of my clients. She had recently lost a lot of hair to damage and shedding and she sent off to Jamaica to get a bottle of what she called 'di real ting' which was handcrafted by an artisan.

The dark murky not so great smelling liquid had  me wondering why on earth she'd go through the hassle of getting it when she lived all the way in Chicago.

Does castor oil thicken black hair?

The answer is a big fat yes! When I saw her a year later her once broken off damaged hair had transformed and was thick, lush and healthy. She gave all the credit to using the castor oil on her scalp daily.

Always keep  a bottle of Jamaican Black Castor Oil on hand for when you notice thinning and shedding in your hair. The natural ingredients encourage hair growth by stimulating the scalp at the cellular level. Just massage it in 3-4 times a week and always get dramatic results in no time.




Biotin for Black Hair Growth

Biotin is an over the counter supplement that lots of black and African American women swear by for hair growth. Deficiencies in this B vitamin cause hair loss and shedding. Women who take biotin in 2500 mcg and higher doses report that their hair always grows faster and breaks a lot less.

This supplement is water soluble which means you can't overdo it. Anything that your body can't use or doesn't need will process right out. Biotin taken in combination with other vitamins and minerals in a product like Hairfinity, a supplement that promises to increase hair growth by 200%, produces the best results.


Fusion Weave For Black And African American Hair


Interested in the fusion weave technique? 
Do you want a natural looking, totally undetectable weave? Nothing’s worse than a style that screams “Hi! I’m a really bad weave!” You know the ones where a gust of wind blows and the tracks are just hanging out for the whole world to see? Yikes!

The ‘growing right out of your scalp look’ has made fusion (also known as infusion) popular among weave wearers. Let’s look at some of the most frequently asked questions about this weaving technique and things you should know before you have it done.


What’s the difference between fusion hair extensions and other weave extensions?

The major differences are the form of hair used, the attachment method and the styling options you have.

Sewn and bonded weaves use tracked hair (hair on a weft) and fusion uses bulk hair (similar to the kind used for braiding).
Fusion is free flowing so you’re able to style the hair in many different ways. Unlike other types of weaves, no matter where you part the hair you won’t see where it’s added in.
This weave technique works best for hair that is very short. If you have hair past neck length I would go with a sewn in or regular bonded weave.


How is fusion weave attached?

The technique is done with a glue gun or hair extension fusion iron that looks like something you'd see at a hardware or craft store.

The glue gun or hair extension iron is used to attach hair extensions close to the roots of the hair in small sections. That’s what makes it seem like the hair is growing directly out of your scalp.
There’s a cold and hot method of bonding the extension hair. Cold bonding is preferred because it makes the hair more flexible, lasts longer and is gentler on your hair.
Washing, styling and using products in your hair isn’t an issue with this weaving technique and as your own hair grows out it will still look great.
Don’t even think about getting fusion done if your hair isn’t completely healthy. You’ll end up with serious damage if you add these hair extensions to weak or breaking hair.


How much does fusion weave cost?

This type of weave isn’t for the casual style diva. It’s an investment.

You’re looking at between $600 and $1500 to have it done (depending on where you have it done and the type of hair your use).
It’s very important to take your time when you choose a stylist to put the hair in. Go as far as having an interview with them if you have to. Ask to see their portfolio before you make a commitment.
Seriously, if you’re going to spend that kind of time and money you’d better get what you want and pay for!


How long does it take?

When you go for your appointment bring a good book and a soft pillow. This type of weave takes a while. Make sure you have at least 8 to 15 hours to spare.


Does fusion damage your own hair?

Fusion weave can definitely cause damage if you’re not careful. You’ll have little to no damage by keeping the following things in mind.

Have your style done by a licensed professional. This type of weave is more technical than the other methods. Leave it in the hands of someone who knows what they're doing.
Have the extensions removed by a professional (for the same reasons as above).
Start the process with healthy, conditioned and trimmed hair. Your style will look better, last longer and cause the least damage.
Care for your own hair underneath the weave by keeping it moisturized with the right products.

The Transition - Relaxed to Natural


Going from relaxed hair to natural hair is a process that involves patience, love and dedication. This is the time you decide you no longer want to relax your hair. At this point, you are "transitioning". 

During this period, proper care must be taken to care for your hair. It may be frustrating sometimes dealing with the two textures – that’s why some opt for "the big chop". This is the point where the relaxed hair is completely removed. Depending on how much natural growth you have, this may mean shaving your head or if you have an inch or two of new growth, you can cut the hair to the point of the new growth. This is known as a TWA (teeny weeny afro) - which looks great on most women! 

If "the big chop" or TWA are not options you’re willing to forgo, try to embrace your hair during the transition period by practicing the following tips: 

Take the time and energy to care for your hair with the right styling options. In order to hide the two textures, you may opt for styles that require very little or no daily grooming like cornrows, braids, extensions, straw-sets or twist-outs. But, you must remember that during this transitioning period – LOVE YOUR HAIR! 

One of the most important things to do is condition, condition, condition! Also, trim your hair gradually to get rid of the straight ends. This also aids in helping the hair avoid breakage. Another way to avoid breakage is to use a wide tooth comb, conditioning the hair regularly, and by giving your hair a hot-oil deep conditioning treatment. This is essential to restore moisture and balance. 

Many women have sworn by this method and have said they have experienced very little breakage or no breakage at all. 

Remember when your hairdresser told you to make sure you don't wait too long for your next relaxer? (6-8 weeks was the recommended time frame). Well, the reason she/he said this was because when you relax the hair, the structure of the hair is now modified. And depending on how straight your relaxed hair is this meant that the hair structure was altered that much more. 

When you transition, the point where the two textures meet is known as the "line of demarcation". This is the weakest point. The curly/coily hair meets the relaxed or straight hair. At this point the structure of the hair is completely different due to the two different textures. This is the point where the hair is susceptible to breakage. 

While transitioning, if you are conditioning your hair, comb the hair carefully with the wide tooth comb while the conditioner is still in the hair. Leave the conditioner in the hair for 10 minutes and then rinse out. A great after wash and conditioner is Infusium Leave-In Conditioner. Add to the hair after washing and conditioning with the creamy conditioner. Infusium Leave-In Conditioner is a great product to use after every wash because it rids the hair of tangles. 

Try to consult with a professional stylist to help you through your transitioning period. A visit to the stylist for a professional deep conditioning will also be very beneficial and helpful during the transition period. It’s best to go to a stylist that embraces natural hair. The last thing you need is a stylist who makes you feel like you’ve lost your mind because you’ve decided to go the natural route. You need to surround yourself with people who support your decision. It’s amazing how many stylists frown upon natural hair. 

Your stylist will also be able to recommend the best products and methods to use for your hair. Another key point to having good hair (whether transitioning or not), is a healthy diet. So, get healthy! Try to eat right so that your hair will grow quickly and grow thick and healthy. Green leafy vegetables like spinach and broccoli are great at growing long healthy locks. 

Transitioning Tip: Try to avoid slicking your hair back because the tension may cause breakage. Your hair is more susceptible to breakage because of the two different textures. 

10 Tips For Maintaining A Weave


A hair weave requires careful maintenance otherwise; you may spoil it much before its time. You need to be careful right from combing to washing it. Some of the ten common tips you should keep in mind while dealing with weaved hair are as follows: 

1. Most often you start to comb from base to the end but to comb weaved hair you should start from the end and then gradually move upwards to the base.
2. Brush before you wash or shampoo your hair and rinse between the tracks to remove the residues.
3. You have to abstain from washing the hair for two weeks to set the weave. Always use mild water while washing the hair, as too hot or too cold water may lock the hair at the base.
4. Avoid using harsh products be it for washing, styling or conditioning.
5. Use of alcohol based product mars sheen of the hair and you should not use them.
6. Ensure professional weaver care and make sure you do not skip regular tightening touch-ups.
7. Use of cotton pillowcases and sheets may adversely affect the shine of your hair so better use a silk or satin scarf to wrap up your hair.
8. During blow-drying, you have to apply higher temperature to straighten and dry the hair. Use variable temperatures for the natural and commercial hairs.
9. If you are on a seaside and wish to swim, either use a swim cap or saturate and rinse the hair by applying a cream rinse before plunging in.
10. While you may undermine the intricacies involved in undoing of the weave, it is better to go for a professional?s hand.


Sometimes, it may happen that you get too busy managing the weave and unconsciously neglect the scalp. An unhealthy scalp may lead to skin irritation and might culminate in various other diseases. Occasionally, an adhesive may not suit your skin so it is good to undergo a test if you are using it for the first time. Dirt, sweat, styling products and natural oils are some of the ingredients that interfere with clean hair condition. You should regularly shampoo and condition the hair to keep it clean. Excessive use of styling products have shown to shorten the longevity of hair extensions as well. Thus, proper care is needed to keep at bay the different types of hair problems associated with hair extensions.

Sleek & Shiny Hair


Some people seem to have all the good fortune when it comes to healthy hair. They have thick, shiny hair that is gorgeous. However, other people only dream of having shiny hair, instead living with hair that is dull and lifeless. For these individuals, no matter what they do, they never can achieve that same shine. The good news is that regardless of your hair type, you too can have beautiful, shiny hair, simply by knowing how.
For brilliance and shine, you have two primary options. The first is to choose commercial products designed specifically to help with shine and the second is to make your own homemade products. Just remember that both options deal with materials that are usually, highly flammable. Therefore, whatever you do, never smoke or use these products near open flames. Additionally, some of these products will create build-up, creating a fire hazard should the hair come too close to an open flame so you want to use caution.

Although there are literally hundreds of products currently on the market, we have put together some of the top brands that people use:

Citre Shine Mist – The shine from this spray is instant and the fresh, citron fragrance gives the hair an overall clean and healthy appeal. Additionally, Citre Shine Mist consists of vitamins and has a formula that protects the hair from the sun’s UV rays. You can find this mist at most drug stores and salons for around $10.

Color Shine Enhancer – Created by BC Bonacure, this product produces a brilliant shine while also protecting the hair from harsh environments and the sun. Made from natural, fruit extracts, this enhancer is non-greasy, carried at most salons, and runs around $20.

Goldwell Trend Line Shine Spray – The finish created with this spray is very elegant, working well with any hairstyle. The product is lightweight, offers a light hold, and averages $12.50 a bottle. The one drawback to this product is that it can be challenging to find since only specific salons carry it.

Joico’s Spray Glaze – Considered a top seller, this formula offers a number of benefits to include protection from the sun’s UV rays, frizz control, an extreme, light gloss that produces exceptional shine, and it has a very pleasant fragrance. The cost for Joico’s is approximately $20 and it is available at most salons.

Ruse Deep Shine Hold and Shine Hairspray – The shine produced is non-sticky and resists humidity. The result of using this product is a natural and healthy shine, and priced at just $15 with wide availability, this is a popular choice.

Volumizers – Spray volumizers are a great option for adding a subtle mist of light that is delivered in droplets to help give the hair volume and shine without making it appear wilted.
When shopping for the right product, keep in mind that you want to choose ones that also deep condition. Now as mentioned, in addition to buying commercial products, you can also make things at home, which also work amazingly well. For example, consider some of the follow recipes:

Avocado - Mash one avocado in a bowl, and then mix it with one teaspoon of baking powder and one tablespoon of olive oil. After mixing well, work the mixture into your hair, making sure it is all covered. Leave this on your hair for 15 to 20 minutes, rinsing completely.

Strawberry Hair Mask – To condition your hair while giving it a rich gloss, mash eight strawberries in a bowl with one tablespoon of mayonnaise. Next, massage the mixture into clean, damp hair. Cover your entire head with a shower cap or piece of plastic, topped with a warm towel. Leave this on for about 15 to 20 minutes, at which time you want to shampoo and condition your hair.

Vitamin E – This vitamin is excellent for producing shiny hair. You can take supplements of simply add foods high in Vitamin E into your diet. Just a few examples would include wheat germ, leafy green vegetables, nuts, and brown rice.
You can also use your blow dryer to create sleek and shiny hair. Instead of spending significant money on high dollar products, you can use inexpensive hair products and your blow dryer to get magnificent results. You will need a towel, a blow dryer, brush and comb, hair barrette or claw-clip, shampoo and conditioner, and just a little bit of hair gel.

Start by shampooing and conditioning your hair. Next, twist it up in the towel to ensure all the excess water is removed. If you have medium to long hair, you might need to leave it wrapped for 20 to 25 minutes whereas for short hair, 10 to 15 minutes would suffice. Then, use a wide-toothed comb to comb out any tangles. When done, part your hair as you normally do.

For the next step, you need to gather your hair, twisting it with the exception of one thing layer at the base of the head. Then with the barrette or clip, pin the hair on top of your head. Now you want to blow dry loose hair. When completely dry, brush your hair out. The clip or barrette can be removed, at which time you blow dry another section of hair. Any damp hair will then be pinned back on top of your head.

Keep drying sections of your hair until it is all dry. Then, brush it out and style, or simply wear it straight. Then, you want to add a small amount of gel into your hands, working it into your hair gently to remove any frizz. For some reason, this technique of drying allows special attention to be paid to various sections of hair and when done, it will have a nice, healthy shine without any uncontrollable frizz.

Eliminating Split Ends



The official name for split ends is Trichoptlosis but no matter what you call them, split ends are annoying and make the hair appear dull and scraggly. The cause of split ends has to do with the protective cuticle, which is stripped from the ends of the hair fibers. Although split ends can happen to all types of hair, typically you will see the most on brittle or dry hair. Other common causes can include excessive brushing, over dying, and brushing the hair while wet.
When the protective cuticle is removed, it cannot be replaced. The result is hair that is not split in two, or sometimes, three strands. Depending on how bad the split end, it can be anywhere from one-eighth to one inch long. While there are several options for treating split ends, the best one is to cut the damaged fibers off.

Many people with split ends think that they have to change their monthly trim to once a week. In fact, that is not necessary. To prevent split ends from becoming worse, you can do other things, including trimming them yourself. Now before you panic, keep in mind that women do trim their own hair all the time and no one is the wiser. Even supermodels will trim their own hair between appointments!

If you have split ends and think, you want to try to trim them yourself, simply follow these recommendations:

Start by taking small sections of hair and then twist them carefully going into a downward motion. What will happen is that the split ends will stick out.

Make sure your scissors are sharp and then snip into the twisted strands without cutting right through. The goal is to cut into the thick portion of the gathered strands so the damaged protective cuticles can be removed and the hair now has a natural, layered effect.

The key is not to cut randomly but to keep the amount of hair cut from each section the same
Remember that split ends can happen to people of both genders and all ages. In addition to the causes already mentioned, other things that are potential problems are using styling tools that are inferior. This means that the tools are snagging or ripping the hair, thus damaging it. Typically, this would include tools such as synthetic combs or brushes, brush rollers, and so on.

Using permanents, hair color, and relaxers or straighteners too often will also lead to split ends along with damage caused by environmental change such as extreme heat or cold and harsh winds, trying to detangle your hair improperly, washing your hair too often and with poor quality products, overuse of waxes, sprays, and gels, and actually having your hair cut with poor quality scissors.

Splits ends also come with numerous myths, which we will put to rest right here:

Once you have split ends, you can never get rid of them. Well, as you have seen from the information provided in this article, that is simply not true.

Split ends can be fixed in that the split is actually repaired. In truth, once a hair fiber is split, it is split. However, you will find some products that will glue the ends back together temporarily but it is not a permanent fix.
To ensure you avoid the dreaded split end, make sure you shampoo your hair with a quality product and use one that has Phytojoba or some other type of moisturizing formula. After conditioning your hair, make sure it is completely rinsed out of the ends. Additionally, after your hair has been rinsed with warm water, you want to do a final rinse of cool to cold water. This will help seal the protective cuticles while giving your hair a sleek shine.

For the next steps, always towel blot your hair, never rubbing rough. After blotting, apply a good leave-in conditioner to the damp hair. Great options include Sebastian’s Potion 9 or Phyto 7 or 9. Then, use a wide-tooth comb to get rid of tangles. For extra shine, rub a dime-size amount of Phytolisse or some other shine product in your hands and then apply to your hair.

Finally, to blow dry your hair, use a round brush or large paddle along with the blow dryer, making sure your hair is fully dried. The goal is to ensure the ends are dried straight since wavy or curly split ends will show up more. Then when your hair is dry, use a heat protecting spray and ceramic flat iron on just the bottom two inches of your ends. You will find after going through this process that your hair looks healthy, sleek, and the split ends vanish from sight. The only thing you need to remember is that unless the split ends are cut off, this is just a temporary solution

Black Hair Styles


People of color have different challenges than other people when it comes to hair. Since black hair is typically courser and wiry, choosing the right style can sometimes be difficult. For many people of color, they want a head of sleek hair. The good news is that good, black hair styles are not difficult to achieve, as long as you know how.
If you were interested in a long, black hair style, you need to remember that the way and amount of hair growth will depend on several things. First, the way in which hair grows has a lot to do with genetics. Therefore, while there might be one family that can wear just about any type of black hair style, other families struggle to get their hair below the chin. Another consideration has to do with health. If you are trying to achieve long hair, certain illnesses such as thyroid or lupus will have an affect on the outcome.

To grow your hair so you can wear it long, you need to make sure you are eating a well balanced diet, have little to no stress in your life, do not smoke, keep your hair clean and healthy, and overall take care of yourself. Additionally, you want to avoid greasing your hair every day, which can actually clog the pores on your scalp. Also, try to avoid using relaxers, if possible, do not bleach your hair, only use hot irons or curls occasionally, and have split ends trimmed. All of these things combined will help you achieve the goal of having any number of long, black hair styles.

Additionally, people of color often wear their hair in dreadlocks, fondly referred to as “locs.” This black hair style requires your hair to be washed, deep conditioned, and oiled prior to starting. From there, you can create the locs on dry or wet hair but if your hair is wet, once the locs are in place, you will need to sit in the sun or under a dryer to allow them to set.

Locs have been a favorite among black hair styles for years. People such as Bob Marley and Lenny Kravitz have made them stylish, popular, and even sexy. To get started, you need to section your hair in braids the thickness that you want the locs. Just keep in mind that about a month or so after you have created the locs, they will expand so be careful not to start too large.

The next step for this black hair style is the braiding and obviously, your hair will need to be long enough to do this. With the sections you have created, make small, individual braids. If your hair is long, you might need to use some type of sticking gel, such as gel or beeswax.

For short hair, you would use a rattail comb to make a comb twist. The comb needs to be placed at the scalp. Then, you will twist the hair downward, using the comb’s teeth. If you want this black hair style to be thin, then use very small parts. Typically, this type of loc will last several weeks.

Another technique is the finger twisting. To make these locs, your hair would need to be a minimum of half-inch long. Again, section the hair, add a little bit of loc styling product, and use your finger to twirl the hair, creating a coil. If needed, you can use bobby pins to secure the locs to your head. If you want to ensure this black hair style does not become frizzy, place a scarf on your head overnight.

Palm rolls are yet another technique in which the hair needs to be at least three inches long. With a little styling product applied to your sectioned hair, you will place the strands of hair in between your hands and rub them back and forth. This will form a spiral type loc.

Finally, the two-strand twist can be done on hair that is a minimum of two inches long. Again, apply a small amount of loc styling product on the sectioned hair and then create a double strand and twist the hair, unlike braiding that would require three strands. The result will appear like a rope. This particular black hair style is a favorite.